The word ‘aggression’ has different meanings and is used in many different ways. But in the dog world we use it when a dog is in a bad state of mind, example; a dog that is aggressive to everyone.
Aggression in the dog world is considered “an intent to harm” human or animal. It is shown by body language, bark, growl or flight (lunging towards object). There are many theories to how aggression is started, but one that we can all agree on is that it is not a genetic form in a dog. Aggression is a man-made behavior and is something we in the animal community should take very seriously.
When a dog is aggressive you want to pinpoint the reasons. A dog can come from an abusive household, or there is not sufficient exercise - therefore there is no release of energy. It can also come from a trauma from another dog, or from a person who trains the dog to be aggressive. Just like fear, aggression is another issue that is difficult to train out of a dog. It is important to deal with it promptly before it becomes is uncontrollable. A professional should be consulted before you or others may be hurt.
Dog trainers and animal behaviorists have something called the “breed standard”, meaning certain breeds such as bully breeds or terriers already have a “predisposition.” This hurts many popular breeds like the Pit bull Terrier, or Bull Terrier, because these two breeds are very high energy and can be prone to bad behavior. Bad behavior can be prevented by working your dog mentally and physically.
In the animal world there is no such thing as a breed standard. Every dog has a different personality and any dog can be aggressive if there is no structure, rules or boundaries. By creating structure, rules and boundaries to every dog, you will have an overall good dog and also one who listens and is trustworthy around other dogs and humans. By not creating structure, rules and boundaries you will have a frustrated dog because there is no release for their energy, therefore the dog will misbehave both on or off-leash.
If you have more than one dog in your house, you have a pack. Therefore you must follow pack rules. Some trainers and behaviorists don't follow these rules because they believe in what is called ‘Alpha Dog Behavior’.
The meaning of alpha dog does not mean a pack leader. An alpha dog is a dominant dog; whether it is male or female. This term is often used figuratively. If you have an alpha dog, you have a dog that will show dominant behavior. There are many professionals who think this is ok; in actuality, it is not because it is only showing how to be dominant and aggressive. Pack leaders are those who guide others to safety or proper behavior. Pack rules are simple-don't dominate your pack by putting yourself in an alpha position as this will only cause aggressive behavior among the pack. There needs to be calm leadership, which will, in turn guide them to behave.
Ultimately, being a pack leader means to guide your pack, not dominate them. Any form of aggression can escalate, so it is important to consult a professional when you are beyond your level of comfort.
Rayner Pacheco Psy.D
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Shelter Dogs;
Each year more than 10,000 pets are left in city shelters and more than 50,000 are abandoned. City shelters like Animal Care and Control are places where most pets don't make it out.
There many reasons why dogs don’t get out; because they aren’t well enough or because they don’t pass something called a “SAFER” test. A SAFER test is done to rate the temperament of the dog so it can be determined whether or not they can go into an adopted home, or to a rescue group. Shelter volunteers put down notes for each dog to know how they were with them and this increases the hope for a dog to get rescued.
The SAFER test is not always accurate, of the large amount of dogs being brought to the shelter, they can only do a test one time, and one time only (unless it is requested by a rescue to reevaluate the dog again). The purpose of this article is not to criticize the city shelters, but to bring awareness of how to properly evaluate a dog, and to know the right words to use and how to use them when evaluating a dog. Every day I get asked by rescue groups to evaluate dogs for them. When I arrive I look at the SAFER test to see why they have the behavior notes.
First impressions are important, if they are lunging or barking at the cage. Remember, oftentimes they are just scared. Shelters are loud and extremely stressful - just imagine yourself going into a place you are not sure of, you will also act very insecure.
Dogs are taken out of the cage and walked to a room where they are evaluated. There, a handler can determine the dog's behavior. Many times, a dog will not show any type of bad behavior, or will show bad behavior because of the level of frustration or insecurity. Many dogs fail tests and therefore get put to sleep, maybe unnecessarily.
I have developed a system that can help rescue groups, or handlers/volunteers to help the dog be better evaluated, it will show the real temperament of the dog. I have used this system many times and have helped place many dogs into great homes. But it must be done with a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
• When seeing a dog, remember to ask for the Evaluation card. There are different tests done, so please ask to see the person who evaluated the dog and so you can ask them questions: how was the dog when leaving the cage, what state was the dog in when getting into the room? Remember when a person is handling the leash they are holding it very tight, so a dog can pick up on everything.
• Make sure that the evaluation room has a hook, this way you can place the leash there, the less you're holding on to the leash the better, the evaluation will run smoother.
You always want to be calm when you’re entering the room where the dogs are, you don’t want to enter with any kind of emotion the dog will read it and play on that. When approaching the cage, remember to not go in a challenging way. Face sideways and show that you’re not confrontational - stay relaxed and let the dog come to you. If the dog is barking right off the bat, do not take the dog out of the cage, this will be the wrong moment for you to anything. Remember, dogs in the shelter do not get daily activities. They have alot of pent up energy. It will take time for the dog to calm down. Once the dog is calm, you put on the leash. Remember to have the leash up high close to the ears not down on the neck. You will lose control if the collar is not placed properly. Always remember that how you are in the beginning of the walk is will pave the way for the rest of the evaluation, so if you don’t show that you’re in control of the situation then you will have a problem.
Once the dog is out, start with a walk, again remember that you have to show control but also understand that the dog is very energetic, so make sure you’re strong and ready for it. Once out the door, use the rule the first 2-4 minutes the dog must use the bathroom before using any commands. This way you will have the dog's attention. Once the walk is done and you're inside, take the dog right to the evaluation room. This is where a trainer or behaviorist will take over, but that doesn’t mean you cannot watch or assist. It is my belief that you would rather see it with your own eyes rather than hear it second hand. If you’re doing the test yourself then here are a few steps to take.
• Bring the dog into the evaluation room, and clip the leash on the hook.
• Do the regular pinches you would normally do, but make sure they aren’t for too long or the dog can feel insecure and react. We don’t want a bite to happen.
• Make sure you have a fake baby toy with you, one that cries is perfect. Bring is close to the dog and make the toy touch the dog just like a child would normally touch a dog. If the dog licks too much, or wants to play with it or other then you know your answer as far as if the dog can be with a child. I have done the child test this way and it has worked many times. Many dogs have been placed at homes where they have children.
• When performing evaluations, you must make sure you have a handler that works for the shelter there. This way if you need help you have it.
A “SAFER” test must be done three times in order for you to know if a dog is adoptable and where can the dog be placed. This rule is ignored because of lack of time, which is why I ask you bring a professional with you to conduct a test with you.
The best way to know if a dog is aggressive or has other behavior issues is by doing it right. We as animal activists must always do things in threes when it comes to evaluations and they must be done right. 99% of the dogs in the shelter are written off as aggressive or fearful but yet they are not evaluated properly. Many people in the shelter system are doing the best they can, but it is also up to us to make sure we can help them. We complain that the shelter system is flawed, but yet not many people help the shelter system. My best advice is if you want to help, make sure you do it properly. In the end we are the voice of the animals and they need us to help them.
Rayner Pacheco Psy.D
T-Trainers
There many reasons why dogs don’t get out; because they aren’t well enough or because they don’t pass something called a “SAFER” test. A SAFER test is done to rate the temperament of the dog so it can be determined whether or not they can go into an adopted home, or to a rescue group. Shelter volunteers put down notes for each dog to know how they were with them and this increases the hope for a dog to get rescued.
The SAFER test is not always accurate, of the large amount of dogs being brought to the shelter, they can only do a test one time, and one time only (unless it is requested by a rescue to reevaluate the dog again). The purpose of this article is not to criticize the city shelters, but to bring awareness of how to properly evaluate a dog, and to know the right words to use and how to use them when evaluating a dog. Every day I get asked by rescue groups to evaluate dogs for them. When I arrive I look at the SAFER test to see why they have the behavior notes.
First impressions are important, if they are lunging or barking at the cage. Remember, oftentimes they are just scared. Shelters are loud and extremely stressful - just imagine yourself going into a place you are not sure of, you will also act very insecure.
Dogs are taken out of the cage and walked to a room where they are evaluated. There, a handler can determine the dog's behavior. Many times, a dog will not show any type of bad behavior, or will show bad behavior because of the level of frustration or insecurity. Many dogs fail tests and therefore get put to sleep, maybe unnecessarily.
I have developed a system that can help rescue groups, or handlers/volunteers to help the dog be better evaluated, it will show the real temperament of the dog. I have used this system many times and have helped place many dogs into great homes. But it must be done with a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
• When seeing a dog, remember to ask for the Evaluation card. There are different tests done, so please ask to see the person who evaluated the dog and so you can ask them questions: how was the dog when leaving the cage, what state was the dog in when getting into the room? Remember when a person is handling the leash they are holding it very tight, so a dog can pick up on everything.
• Make sure that the evaluation room has a hook, this way you can place the leash there, the less you're holding on to the leash the better, the evaluation will run smoother.
You always want to be calm when you’re entering the room where the dogs are, you don’t want to enter with any kind of emotion the dog will read it and play on that. When approaching the cage, remember to not go in a challenging way. Face sideways and show that you’re not confrontational - stay relaxed and let the dog come to you. If the dog is barking right off the bat, do not take the dog out of the cage, this will be the wrong moment for you to anything. Remember, dogs in the shelter do not get daily activities. They have alot of pent up energy. It will take time for the dog to calm down. Once the dog is calm, you put on the leash. Remember to have the leash up high close to the ears not down on the neck. You will lose control if the collar is not placed properly. Always remember that how you are in the beginning of the walk is will pave the way for the rest of the evaluation, so if you don’t show that you’re in control of the situation then you will have a problem.
Once the dog is out, start with a walk, again remember that you have to show control but also understand that the dog is very energetic, so make sure you’re strong and ready for it. Once out the door, use the rule the first 2-4 minutes the dog must use the bathroom before using any commands. This way you will have the dog's attention. Once the walk is done and you're inside, take the dog right to the evaluation room. This is where a trainer or behaviorist will take over, but that doesn’t mean you cannot watch or assist. It is my belief that you would rather see it with your own eyes rather than hear it second hand. If you’re doing the test yourself then here are a few steps to take.
• Bring the dog into the evaluation room, and clip the leash on the hook.
• Do the regular pinches you would normally do, but make sure they aren’t for too long or the dog can feel insecure and react. We don’t want a bite to happen.
• Make sure you have a fake baby toy with you, one that cries is perfect. Bring is close to the dog and make the toy touch the dog just like a child would normally touch a dog. If the dog licks too much, or wants to play with it or other then you know your answer as far as if the dog can be with a child. I have done the child test this way and it has worked many times. Many dogs have been placed at homes where they have children.
• When performing evaluations, you must make sure you have a handler that works for the shelter there. This way if you need help you have it.
A “SAFER” test must be done three times in order for you to know if a dog is adoptable and where can the dog be placed. This rule is ignored because of lack of time, which is why I ask you bring a professional with you to conduct a test with you.
The best way to know if a dog is aggressive or has other behavior issues is by doing it right. We as animal activists must always do things in threes when it comes to evaluations and they must be done right. 99% of the dogs in the shelter are written off as aggressive or fearful but yet they are not evaluated properly. Many people in the shelter system are doing the best they can, but it is also up to us to make sure we can help them. We complain that the shelter system is flawed, but yet not many people help the shelter system. My best advice is if you want to help, make sure you do it properly. In the end we are the voice of the animals and they need us to help them.
Rayner Pacheco Psy.D
T-Trainers
Saturday, February 4, 2012
The Truth about Fear Aggression;
There many dog trainers or veterinarians who use the word 'fear aggression' for dogs who bite out of fear. In reality there is no such word for this behavior.
Here is the meaning of Fear; a distressing emotion aroused by impending danger, evil, pain, etc., whether the threat is real or imagined; the feeling or condition of being afraid. So with aggression, the meaning is completely different, putting the two words together will only make a diagnosis that will turn a fearful dog into an aggressive dog.
Dogs that are afraid of anything tend to give reactions; body language is a good sign of knowing when a dog can bite. When having a dog with fear issues, you must know why the dog has it. Many shelter or rescue dogs come with 'baggage'. If the issue is greater than can be managed comfortably, it is best to reach out to a behaviorist.
Fear issues can easily become red zone cases. For instance, a fearful dog can bite someone not because it is aggressive, but because it is unsure of a situation. A fearful dog might urinate; we call that submissive peeing.
Fear issue cases can lead to an aggressive moment by going through several stages. The first stage is insecurity, then the dog can become stressed because of the level of insecurity, from that stress it can become frustration, then that frustration can lead to AGGRESSION. This is why most people use the term fear aggression because they don’t know the stage breakdown. So, how do you stop this insecure behavior from becoming aggression - well here is how!
• You need to learn to gain the trust of your dog by approaching calmly, never approaching the dog front first. Slowly go to your dog and kneel down to his/her side and this will show the dog you’re non-confrontational.
• Remember, everything is convocation to a dog from how you approach, to how you hold the leash. Once you’re down to a neutral level just be patient. Let the dog go in a down or in sitting position, from there you extend your hand or use treats to show that you’re not going to hurt him/her.
• Once the dog is in a calmer state, show the leash. It is important to remain calm because you don't want the dog to run from you, then necessitating repeating the stages. Remember to be consistent.
• If your dog is accepting the leash and is walking well, you then present a treat, this time use a different treat than when leashing up. Begin to walk and remember to relax the leash. If the dog seems agitated when you put on the leash, just relax, remember if you start to act negatively it will lead it to the leash becoming a negative association to the dog. Just relax and let the dog go through what I call motions.. once that happens then you will be fine, the dog will calm down and then you start with the walk…
Now I’m sure many of you will ask, “well my dog will snap at me or is starting to growl when I approach with the leash or if I even just approach the dog”. That’s a sign of a frustrated dog, very insecure and nervous. At this point give the dog space and let the dog come to you…
Dogs that have fear issues don’t need to be on medications, they can overcome these issues with just you being patient and showing trust…
If you need additional help, please contact a professional. Remember every dog is different, not all dogs require the same training. Once you know the root of the problem you will better be able to solve it.
Rayner Pacheco Psy.D
T-Trainers
Here is the meaning of Fear; a distressing emotion aroused by impending danger, evil, pain, etc., whether the threat is real or imagined; the feeling or condition of being afraid. So with aggression, the meaning is completely different, putting the two words together will only make a diagnosis that will turn a fearful dog into an aggressive dog.
Dogs that are afraid of anything tend to give reactions; body language is a good sign of knowing when a dog can bite. When having a dog with fear issues, you must know why the dog has it. Many shelter or rescue dogs come with 'baggage'. If the issue is greater than can be managed comfortably, it is best to reach out to a behaviorist.
Fear issues can easily become red zone cases. For instance, a fearful dog can bite someone not because it is aggressive, but because it is unsure of a situation. A fearful dog might urinate; we call that submissive peeing.
Fear issue cases can lead to an aggressive moment by going through several stages. The first stage is insecurity, then the dog can become stressed because of the level of insecurity, from that stress it can become frustration, then that frustration can lead to AGGRESSION. This is why most people use the term fear aggression because they don’t know the stage breakdown. So, how do you stop this insecure behavior from becoming aggression - well here is how!
• You need to learn to gain the trust of your dog by approaching calmly, never approaching the dog front first. Slowly go to your dog and kneel down to his/her side and this will show the dog you’re non-confrontational.
• Remember, everything is convocation to a dog from how you approach, to how you hold the leash. Once you’re down to a neutral level just be patient. Let the dog go in a down or in sitting position, from there you extend your hand or use treats to show that you’re not going to hurt him/her.
• Once the dog is in a calmer state, show the leash. It is important to remain calm because you don't want the dog to run from you, then necessitating repeating the stages. Remember to be consistent.
• If your dog is accepting the leash and is walking well, you then present a treat, this time use a different treat than when leashing up. Begin to walk and remember to relax the leash. If the dog seems agitated when you put on the leash, just relax, remember if you start to act negatively it will lead it to the leash becoming a negative association to the dog. Just relax and let the dog go through what I call motions.. once that happens then you will be fine, the dog will calm down and then you start with the walk…
Now I’m sure many of you will ask, “well my dog will snap at me or is starting to growl when I approach with the leash or if I even just approach the dog”. That’s a sign of a frustrated dog, very insecure and nervous. At this point give the dog space and let the dog come to you…
Dogs that have fear issues don’t need to be on medications, they can overcome these issues with just you being patient and showing trust…
If you need additional help, please contact a professional. Remember every dog is different, not all dogs require the same training. Once you know the root of the problem you will better be able to solve it.
Rayner Pacheco Psy.D
T-Trainers
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Home Rules.... T-Trainers help a couple and there two dogs
Here is T-Trainers Ray And Kat showing a couple how to work with there dogs...
were in the middle of the show so watch and see.....
Friday, January 1, 2010
Omg!!!! What do I do?
all dogs show no fear in reality, but in some cases you have those that will show something else, Fear, Nervious behavior,....
There are many ways to stop this type of behavior, but many ways will requior for you to use tools that you don't have, and spending money on trainers to take them to boot camp something doesnt do the trick,
So with research I have developed a way to stop surtin fear issues, some nervious issues...
some examples are hiding when they hear loud noises, that is nervious behavior, they will shart to shake and sometimes howl, but here is a good way,
start by first getting you dog to come to you, if that doesn't work, try applying a leash on a taking the dog out, (use treats if nessary) once the dog is out, use a distraction, sometimes doing training, sometimes playing ball at home, while the noise is still going they are doing some activity to redirect there mind......
Fear is something that a different type of method will need depending on what type it can be, this is were you use calm behavior in your part, every dog looks for there owner to help them in everyway, if you giuld them through everything and anything they will reward you with a big lick,
if you need more assistance with these or any other behavior issues please dont' work at it alone, call a behaviorist or trainer to help you with your dog.......
There are many ways to stop this type of behavior, but many ways will requior for you to use tools that you don't have, and spending money on trainers to take them to boot camp something doesnt do the trick,
So with research I have developed a way to stop surtin fear issues, some nervious issues...
some examples are hiding when they hear loud noises, that is nervious behavior, they will shart to shake and sometimes howl, but here is a good way,
start by first getting you dog to come to you, if that doesn't work, try applying a leash on a taking the dog out, (use treats if nessary) once the dog is out, use a distraction, sometimes doing training, sometimes playing ball at home, while the noise is still going they are doing some activity to redirect there mind......
Fear is something that a different type of method will need depending on what type it can be, this is were you use calm behavior in your part, every dog looks for there owner to help them in everyway, if you giuld them through everything and anything they will reward you with a big lick,
if you need more assistance with these or any other behavior issues please dont' work at it alone, call a behaviorist or trainer to help you with your dog.......
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
My Puppy, oh My Puppy
For every owner there is either a adopted dog, or A PUPPY..
At times we need to show puppy love a control, the little training that a dog can get is important for there growing lives….
Now for training for a puppy, Classes were there is puppy play is a great way to start anything, but before that, the vet needs to make sure they give you the ok for them to play amongst the group…
When getting the puppy home make sure you have the following items..
1) Crate
2) Wee-wee pads
3) Flat-line collar.
4) Treats
5) 6FT leash
Potty Training….
When showing a puppy were to go you must have much pactients,
Make sure you use the rule of 2-4 meaning, every 2-4 hours depending on the month of the puppy you apply on the leash and walk the puppy to the wee-wee pads, add a command ex. “go pee-pee” or “go poopy”. Once the puppy has gone and done it’s business you praise them for that. Make sure your using soft treats not hard biscuits, or kibble. If the puppy doesn’t go within the first couple of mins, then you place puppy into the crate, wait for about 2 mins then repeat the exercise. Your puppy will start to understand what the commands are once used several times,
Rule of thumb: make sure that you keep the wee-wee pads on the same spot, if anything make sure you use a mesh rug on the bottom of the wee-wee pads so it can stay in place.
When is it the right time for my puppy to start to walk outside?
Once the puppy has an OK!! From a vet, then he or she can start to walk with a collar and leash outside… Take your puppy to a grassy area, this will be like taking him or her to a wee-wee pad cause it’s soft, say command for puppy to do it’s business,
Rule of Thumb: before your puppy goes outside (after it has gotten all of it’s shots) make sure you work on some basic commands ex: sit, stay, heal
When should I see a trainer for help?
Remember not all trainers will be right in there word on training, please make sure you research your trainer, try to build a relationship with your trainer, remember they will be on call for any questions. A trainer will never tell you let’s wait till your puppy is able to play with other dogs, the work starts right away, from everything basic.. Remember you want to be able to work with your puppy right away, if not they you will never have control of your dog, even if you are able to do it down the line, it will not be the same..
When should I neuter or spay my puppy?
This question is always played with, some vets might say to fix your dog once it has gone threw a curtain period of time.. For females you wait for there first heat, for males it’s about 8 or 9 months..
Some vets will tell you it can happen after it’s final shots..
To be quite honest with you, it depends on breed. Some large breeds you might need to wait till there first heat or 8-9 months, some not..
Little breeds again it will depend…
The reason is cause some breeds need to mature so they can live a long healthy life, some really can be ok with just doing it right away, ex: some pit bulls need to go into maturity for them to live a healthy life, or not to have complications. It happens; it’s a genetic problem… Some breeds like a Shiba Izu really can get fixed right away.
When should I allow my puppy to just be a puppy?
Really good question, in reality you want to not have your puppy get on the couches, or our beds, or really be by the eating table. They should only be on the couch or on the bed when we say ok, not cause they want to just be and it’s a cute thing, remember everything is a cute thing cause they are puppies, but you will regret it in the end…
What kind of commands should I use?
When working with a trainer they will tell you “make sure tonight you work on commands you want to have your puppy learn”, this way everyone is on the same page, it would be wrong if everyone is on different pages then you will have a confused puppy.
Puppy classes
When a dog is ready to play with others, it’s good to take them to puppy play classes, this way you can monitor them in how they play, make sure your have your trainer there with you, so you know what is play and what to do if it’s escalating, it’s a good thing to show them how to play nice not ruff..
Well This is it for what you would need to know..
Remember a puppy is still a dog, you need to show affection last, exercise and discipline always comes first…
Rayner Pacheco BCCAB
T-trainers Dog Trainers, LLC
1(646)707-2050
At times we need to show puppy love a control, the little training that a dog can get is important for there growing lives….
Now for training for a puppy, Classes were there is puppy play is a great way to start anything, but before that, the vet needs to make sure they give you the ok for them to play amongst the group…
When getting the puppy home make sure you have the following items..
1) Crate
2) Wee-wee pads
3) Flat-line collar.
4) Treats
5) 6FT leash
Potty Training….
When showing a puppy were to go you must have much pactients,
Make sure you use the rule of 2-4 meaning, every 2-4 hours depending on the month of the puppy you apply on the leash and walk the puppy to the wee-wee pads, add a command ex. “go pee-pee” or “go poopy”. Once the puppy has gone and done it’s business you praise them for that. Make sure your using soft treats not hard biscuits, or kibble. If the puppy doesn’t go within the first couple of mins, then you place puppy into the crate, wait for about 2 mins then repeat the exercise. Your puppy will start to understand what the commands are once used several times,
Rule of thumb: make sure that you keep the wee-wee pads on the same spot, if anything make sure you use a mesh rug on the bottom of the wee-wee pads so it can stay in place.
When is it the right time for my puppy to start to walk outside?
Once the puppy has an OK!! From a vet, then he or she can start to walk with a collar and leash outside… Take your puppy to a grassy area, this will be like taking him or her to a wee-wee pad cause it’s soft, say command for puppy to do it’s business,
Rule of Thumb: before your puppy goes outside (after it has gotten all of it’s shots) make sure you work on some basic commands ex: sit, stay, heal
When should I see a trainer for help?
Remember not all trainers will be right in there word on training, please make sure you research your trainer, try to build a relationship with your trainer, remember they will be on call for any questions. A trainer will never tell you let’s wait till your puppy is able to play with other dogs, the work starts right away, from everything basic.. Remember you want to be able to work with your puppy right away, if not they you will never have control of your dog, even if you are able to do it down the line, it will not be the same..
When should I neuter or spay my puppy?
This question is always played with, some vets might say to fix your dog once it has gone threw a curtain period of time.. For females you wait for there first heat, for males it’s about 8 or 9 months..
Some vets will tell you it can happen after it’s final shots..
To be quite honest with you, it depends on breed. Some large breeds you might need to wait till there first heat or 8-9 months, some not..
Little breeds again it will depend…
The reason is cause some breeds need to mature so they can live a long healthy life, some really can be ok with just doing it right away, ex: some pit bulls need to go into maturity for them to live a healthy life, or not to have complications. It happens; it’s a genetic problem… Some breeds like a Shiba Izu really can get fixed right away.
When should I allow my puppy to just be a puppy?
Really good question, in reality you want to not have your puppy get on the couches, or our beds, or really be by the eating table. They should only be on the couch or on the bed when we say ok, not cause they want to just be and it’s a cute thing, remember everything is a cute thing cause they are puppies, but you will regret it in the end…
What kind of commands should I use?
When working with a trainer they will tell you “make sure tonight you work on commands you want to have your puppy learn”, this way everyone is on the same page, it would be wrong if everyone is on different pages then you will have a confused puppy.
Puppy classes
When a dog is ready to play with others, it’s good to take them to puppy play classes, this way you can monitor them in how they play, make sure your have your trainer there with you, so you know what is play and what to do if it’s escalating, it’s a good thing to show them how to play nice not ruff..
Well This is it for what you would need to know..
Remember a puppy is still a dog, you need to show affection last, exercise and discipline always comes first…
Rayner Pacheco BCCAB
T-trainers Dog Trainers, LLC
1(646)707-2050
Thursday, October 22, 2009
How do I introduce my dog with another dog I want to adopt!!!!
Everyday we see our dogs and would want a companin for our bestfriend, so we look and look to see the right dog, now remember, your dog maybe dominate, or submissive, get a dog that is an opposite of the energy of your dog, at times breeds that are two females or two males at the same house hold will cause conflict, so please consult a behaviorist to get the right temperment of your dog and what they would suggest......
When choosing a dog you first see what your dog is first ex. Is your dog energetic, dose your dog love to play with other dogs meaning do you take your dog to the dog park or run? How is your dog on walks, and how often do you take your dog on walks....
Once braking down that, then you start to looks for a couple of dogs and research them, call the rescue group and ask questions on the dog!!! Questions to ask temperment, good with other dogs, good on the walks, and sometimes they might have a history on the dog, so that's a good thing to ask, start to narow it down to about 3 dogs and see them, sometimes rescue orgs have events were they will bring there dogs, you can ask if the dog will be there, once seeing the dog spend time with him or her, let the dog get to know you by a good walk with you and the foster... Let them know the type of dog you have and they can determine if the dog is right for you(remember they are fostering the dog, so they will know the dog better then anyone, breed is one thing, but once you add personality it's a different ball game, ex goldens are a great breed but there personality can variery)....
Then go to the next step, ask for a play date to introduce the two dogs, make sure it's in a park, and have them play..... You will know the reaction of the dogs once they meet, (sometimes it takes about 3 play dates before everything between them are good)
Next step, bring them to the naborhood, ask the foster to bring the dog over, meet two houses away, and let then say hi to each other. And then take a nice walk around the naborhood, then bring in the house and let the leashes go, (no toys or food should be out while they are still getting to know each other) have a trial period with the dog, and if everything works out for the week, then make your decision and there you have it
Now remember to follow the rules of pack order, what u do with the one dog you have the other follow, start taking both dogs back to obideance classes, and have them bond that way as well as the walk.... And make sure excersie and a balance is well mantain at all times with both dogs.....
So with two happy dogs you will know a joy into what two dogs are to your life, keep them consistant......
Hope all this information was helpful and gives you an edge into introduction between your dog and a new friend....
Rayner Pacheco
T-Trainers
646-707-2050
When choosing a dog you first see what your dog is first ex. Is your dog energetic, dose your dog love to play with other dogs meaning do you take your dog to the dog park or run? How is your dog on walks, and how often do you take your dog on walks....
Once braking down that, then you start to looks for a couple of dogs and research them, call the rescue group and ask questions on the dog!!! Questions to ask temperment, good with other dogs, good on the walks, and sometimes they might have a history on the dog, so that's a good thing to ask, start to narow it down to about 3 dogs and see them, sometimes rescue orgs have events were they will bring there dogs, you can ask if the dog will be there, once seeing the dog spend time with him or her, let the dog get to know you by a good walk with you and the foster... Let them know the type of dog you have and they can determine if the dog is right for you(remember they are fostering the dog, so they will know the dog better then anyone, breed is one thing, but once you add personality it's a different ball game, ex goldens are a great breed but there personality can variery)....
Then go to the next step, ask for a play date to introduce the two dogs, make sure it's in a park, and have them play..... You will know the reaction of the dogs once they meet, (sometimes it takes about 3 play dates before everything between them are good)
Next step, bring them to the naborhood, ask the foster to bring the dog over, meet two houses away, and let then say hi to each other. And then take a nice walk around the naborhood, then bring in the house and let the leashes go, (no toys or food should be out while they are still getting to know each other) have a trial period with the dog, and if everything works out for the week, then make your decision and there you have it
Now remember to follow the rules of pack order, what u do with the one dog you have the other follow, start taking both dogs back to obideance classes, and have them bond that way as well as the walk.... And make sure excersie and a balance is well mantain at all times with both dogs.....
So with two happy dogs you will know a joy into what two dogs are to your life, keep them consistant......
Hope all this information was helpful and gives you an edge into introduction between your dog and a new friend....
Rayner Pacheco
T-Trainers
646-707-2050
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